30-31 August 2013 - Berat Dansk

Efter endnu en nat med en Saya , der sov  urolig (hun vågnede ved 2 tiden, grædende, hun sagde at hunden ikke måtte drille hende) vågnede vi op ved ni tiden. Vi havde aftalt med vores vært Dorian han ville hente os ved ti tiden, og vi gjorde os klar, jeg brugte en smule tid til at rense min Handpresso og få det til at virke - og efter det fik jeg brugt den, og det gav super mening at få den med. Mine morgener vil være perfekt fra nu af.
Vores vært ankom på klokkeslettet, og efter at have talt lidt sammen, tog han os til et hotel uden for byen, blev det bygget som et slot, og var næsten i god smag (host). Han sagde, at de plejede at have en bjørn der - men de kunne ikke få den rigtige mad for det, så de ikke kunne få det længere.
Vi insisterede på at give ham en kop kaffe og sludre med ham. Han fortalte os om Albanien fra hans perspektiv, og hvad det var sket. I 97 blev den siddende regering væltet (en hurtig wiki søgning fortæller os det skyldtes masse statslige sanktioneret pyramidespil, der blev brugt til at hvidvaske penge og skjule våbenhandel ), og landet blev kastet ind fem års kaos, hvor kriminelle overtog landet. I 2005 begyndte tingene at gå tilbage til noget mere "normal". Dette er hans syn på hvordan tingene skete- vi har brug for at tjekke op på dette. (Se denne plads) - men han sagde, at disse år i mellem , hvor mørke år ,af frygt og blackout ,og kun lige de seneste år tingene er begyndte at ændres. Som vi har set bliver infrastrukturen opdateret i massivt omfang rundt om i landet , hvor gamle hul veje bliver lavet om til nye motorveje. Som han sagde, har ikke tillid til en GPS, hvis du rejser rundt hernede, da ændringen er så hurtigt, at de ikke har tid til at opdatere dem. I den sammenhæng fortalte han en meget passende historie, han fortalte var af en mand, der kørte en nat, hvor der var intet gadebelysning, og han kørte hurtigt. Han kørte ind i en landmand med sit æsel og vogn. De har begge blev dræbt ved sammenslaget, og manden blev kastet 100 meter ned ad gaden. Det virker så passende på hvad vi har set og oplevet i Albanien. Udviklingen er så hurtigt, nogle steder, at det ikke synes at have planlagt det, da vi kørte i vores taxa drev i Sarandë så vi sammenstyrtede bygninger . Den voksende økonomi vil uden tvivl hjælpe og hjælper Albanien, men måske det kommer til hurtige nogle steder, og i sidste ende vil ødelægge noget af det unikke ved dette sted. Det ville være interessant at se, hvordan tingene ser ud her om bare fem år. Dorian fortalte os, at han har en universitetseksamen i historie og geografi , og kan lave el-arbejde , men der er ingen job i den første, og ingen penge i den anden, så han er bestyre af hans søsters huse(det vi lejer), indtil noget bedre dukker op. Han sagde, at Albanien oplever græske og italiensk immigration af arbejdere, der kommer til Albanien for at forsøge at få arbejde, hvilket gør det svært for en som ham at få arbejde. Han drømmer om at tage til Dubai, USA eller Japan for at arbejde .
Vi har bemærket, at der er en masse af EU og amerikanske flag her, Kosovo har en masse kærlighed til Clinton , Albanien har en masse kærlighed til Bush, da han var den, der endte med at gemme Albanien i 2005 (som jeg faktisk var uvidende om ) .
Dette er, hvad vi virkelig nyder at rejse steder som dette, foruden den rige historie (både nyere og "gamle" )er muligheden for at få denne historie fortalt af en lokal, og hvordan de har oplevet det.

Efter at få fortalt nogle rent faktisk ikke så behagelig historie er i en meget behagelig omgivende, besluttede vi at køre til en vingård uden for byen. Saya kæmpede med turen, men hun forstår, at det er vigtigt at kigge ud af vinduet og fortælle os, når hun ikke føler sig godt. Vi havde en kort pause (hvad der viste sig at være lige udenfor det sted, vi skulle ), og ankom efter omkring 30 minutter. En af de ting jeg har nævnt tidligere, er, at Albanien er et frodigt land , og det var meget tydeligt , da vi kom til vingården. Citroner og granatæble træer stod modne hele vejen op i huset, med drue buske i række på række bagved dem.

Stedet var meget rart, fik vi en rundvisning på stedet, vi så hvordan de brygget og tappet vinen på flaskerne, og det var et meget stilfuldt sted. Vi fik en smagsprøve på fire vine og en raki , med nogle brød , ost og oliven. Vi blev en smule bedugget og endte med at købe fem flasker hvidvin (som jeg drikker et glas af lige nu) - Dorian insisterede på  at kun drikke vand, en meget bevidst menneske. Glad og nogle lek fattigere kørte vi tilbage til Berat. Saya var i dårligt humør, så vi besluttede at få en kop kaffe (nogle jordbær is til hende, siden hun insisterede på, at der er nødt til at være rød is), og gå tilbage til huset for en kort pause.
Vi spillede rundt, læse nogle bøger, vasket tøj og slappede af, som synes at få Sayas humør godt igen. Vi tog derefter til hotel (Derseret) - som var lidt af begyndelsen på den vej, der fører til slottet. Et andet sted med en vidunderlig udsigt over byen, hvor vi havde en fantastisk måltid. Det er ligesom den almindelige mad, vi har her, enkel, men smagfuld. Hotellet var en ydmyg sted ( langt fra bygget færdig) , men maden var fantastisk, og billigt! For 125 kr (17 Euro) fik vi tre hovedretter med en sideret til to af dem, to deserter og to øl. Det er så rart at være i en del af Balkan, hvor de rent faktisk kan lave mad(Novi Pazar oplevelsen fra sidste år hjemsøger stadigt) Det synes en mærkelig blanding af græsk og italiensk, men det virker, det virker bare , den to ting komplimere hinanden rigtig godt .


Efter måltidet gik vi hjem , fik Saya til at sove, og her er vi. Jeg har ryddet op billederne og få dem sorteret i dag eller i morgen, denne blog bliver langsomt opbygget.

30-31 August 2013 - Berat

After another night with a Saya that sleeped uneasy (she woke at 2 crying at said that the dog was teased her) we woke up at nine. We had agreed with our host Dorian he would pick us up at ten and we had to get ready, I used a bit of time to clean my Handpresso and get it to work - and after it did, it really did make perfect sense to bring it along. My mornings will be perfect from here on out.



Our host arrived perfectly on time and after a bit of a talk he took us to a hotel above the city, it was build like a castle, and was almost in good taste (cough). He said the used to have a bear there - but they could not get the right food for it, so they could not have it anymore.

We insisted on giving him a cup of coffee and talk to him. He told us about Albania, from his perspective, and what have happened. In 97 the residing government was overthrown (a quick wiki search tells us it was due to massive government sanctioned pyramid schemes to launder money and hide arms trafficking) and the country was thrown into five years of chaos, where criminals essentially took over the country. In 2005 things started to go back to something more "normal". This is his account of the happenings - we need to check up on this. (Watch this space we will read up on the resent history) - but he said that these years in between where dark years, of fear and blackout, and only just the resent years things have stated to pick up here. As we have seen the infrastructure is being updated in massive scale around the country, where old holed roads are turned it to new highways. As he said, do not trust a GPS if visiting, since the change is so fast that they do not have time to update them. A very fitting story he told was of a man that drove in the night where there was no light, and he drove fast. He drove into a farmer with his donkey and carriage. They both were killed on impact, and the man was thrown 100 meters down the street. It seems so fitting on what we have seen and experienced in Albania. The development is so fast some places that it do not seem thought though, in our taxi drive in Sarandë we saw collapsed buildings. The growing economy will without a doubt help and is helping Albania, but maybe it is going to fast some places, and will eventually destroy what is unique about his place. It would be interesting to see how things look here in five years time. Dorian told us that he has a university diploma in history and geography, and can do electrical work, but there is no job in the first one and no money in the other one, so he is looking out for his sisters rent out house (we are renting) until something better comes along. He said that Albania is experiencing Greek and Italian migrations workers coming to Albania to try to get work which makes it hard for someone like him to get work. He dreams of going to Dubai, USA or Japan to work.
We have noticed that there are a lot of EU and American flags here, Kosovo have a lot of love for Clinton, Albania have a lot of love for Bush, since he was the one that ended up saving Albania in 2005 (which I actually was unaware of).

This is what we really enjoy about traveling places like this, besides the rich history (both resent and "old") is the possibility to get this story told by a local and how they have experienced it.

After getting told some actually not so pleasant story's in a very pleasant surrounding, we decided to drive to a wineyard outside of town. Saya struggled with the trip, but she understands that it is important to look out the front window and tell us when she is not feeling well. We had a short break (what turned out to be right outside the place we were going) and arrived after about 30 minutes. One of the things i have mentioned earlier is that Albania is a fertile country, and that was very apparent when we came to the wine-yard. Lemon and pomegranate trees was lining the road up the house, with full grape bushes lining behind them.

The place was very nice, we got a tour of the place the brew and make the bottles and it was beautifully made. We got a taster of four wines and a raki, with some bread, cheese and olives. We got a bit tipsy and ended up buying five bottles of white wine (of which i am drinks a glass right now) - Dorian only drank water, he insisted, a very conscious man. Happy and some lek poorer we drove back to Berat. Saya was in a bad mood so we decided to get a cup of coffee (some strawberry ice cream for her, since she insisted that is had to be red ice cream) and go back to the house for a short break.

We played around, read some books, washed some cloth and releaxed, which seems to get Sayas mood good again. We then went to hotel (Derseret) - which was a bit of the the beginning of the road that lead to the castle. Another place with a wonderful view of the city, where we had an amazing meal. It is like the general food we have here, simple but tasteful. The hotel was a humble place (far from build finished) but the food was amazing, and cheap! For 125 kr (17 Euro) we got thre main courses with a sideorder to the two of them, two deserts and two beers. It is so nice to be in a part of the Balkans where they actually can cook (The Novi Pazar experience from last year is still haunting me)  It does seem an odd mixture of Greek and Italian, but it works, it just works, the two things combliment each other very well.

After the meal we went home, got Saya to sleep, and here we are. I have cleaned up the pictures and get them sorted today or tomorrow, this blog is slowly building up.